Most 15" steelies fit the JK, most 15" alloys do not. Larry is right about the 8" rims. They really help keep the bead on without beadlocks. I always run 8-12# on the trail and have never lost a bead (although I have blurped some air).
With that lift, if you wheel it hard, plan on spending $1000 on drive shafts in your future (I lost both of mine with 3").
I have those exact same tires. They were designed for off-road use and work excellent for that purpose. But, if you plan to use your Jeep as a daily driver, consider the following warnings:
1) They are loud, and get much louder as they wear.
2) They do not balance well (if at all).
3) They are very soft and wear out fast at about 20,000 miles. This is half the life of many other tires. So the Iroks may sound cheap, but if you plan on putting a lot of street miles on this jeep, your spending double what you would spend on KM2s, Toyos, or MTRs in the long run.
When I first got my jeep, it was my wifes, so I decked it out in ShittyBuilt bumpers and rockers. By the time it became my jeep;
1) The XRC rear bumper kept opening up on its own on the road. Smitty would send me new parts and it would keep happening. I finally got my money back when I complained about how dangerous it was.
2) My smitty built rockers lasted for 2 trips to calico and 1 trip on freeway ridge before they bent up into the body.
3) My SRC front bumper lasted about a year before the sides bent back (I just sawzalled them off) and it cracked in two places. when I installed it, I had to drill alot of my own holes because nothing lined up. Oh, and good luck tightening up the winch bolts properly - I had to mod it to get that done.
Also consider that everyone in this club that has bought a Smitty winch has had problems. Sure smitty replaces sh!t when it breaks or doesn't work, but at what point do you get sick of messing with this Chinese crap?
And the biggest point, is those 37s. When I went to 33s, I noticed no difference in power or drivability. When I went to 35s - Re-geared and bought a superchips. When I went to 37s - well now I'm looking at a supercharger
. 5.13 gears and a programmer are going to be MANDATORY to run those 37s - and you will still be underpowered. And, the programmer will correct your speedometer (which will be 20MPH off) and fix your shift points.
37s are also hard on your axles, especially the front one (which has the same tubes and knuckles as a D30), So you should sleeve and gusset the axle too. And change to Chromoly axle shafts with full circle clip u-joints while you are re-gearing. You should also beef up your steering to handle the additional stress.
As you can see, 37s have some very expensive and involved issues that need to be dealt with before the damage occurs.
Good luck with your build.
to lift the jeep (not that she cared anyways) 
. Not sure how much of that was true or not but i said the hell with it and paid the extra for the 16" wheel, and extra for the 16" tire. Altogether I ended up spending about 300 more for 1" more inch of rim and 1" less of tire wall 
).