Need Suggestions for my 12 JKUR

[H. Badger]

Ok, I am bone stock because I have been very indecisive on what to do for upgrades to my new Rubi.

Before I start I have to add this.

I was lucky enough to get a LIFE TIME WARRANTY bumper to bumper on my jeep.

With that I have to be extremely careful about what I do to my jeep as to not void my warranty.

Ok this is my weekend toy as well as my DD. I would like to keep everything as light as possible where I can and with your recommendations use steel. I have been looking at genright bumpers due to the aluminum options, I would like it to cover my grill width at least and would like it to have recovery points and brawler bar type hoop not a huge stinger. With the rear I would like an all in one tire carrier bumper etc. light with rack capabilities. I have also found aluminum fenders which i was planning on doing as well. The lift I am going to use is the 3" lift from Jeep due to the warranty stuff. Later on I was thinking of going to 35" tires because I think the stock 33" tires will look too small on a 4 door with a 3" but I worry about power issues. (i have the 6 speed manual if that helps with suggestions).

All in all I want to be able to do all the fun stuff but not have some million pound tank rolling down the road to work.

Your help is greatly appreciated

[Desert Dog]

1) Research the The Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act. You will soon find out that Chrysler has the WORST service in the industry, so get used to arguing for everything. Many of us, including myself, have had to threaten to sue under the The Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act to get work done. Legally, they have to PROVE beyond doubt that a mod you made directly caused the damage. Even if you don't mod your jeep, the dealership will try to get out of it. Unfortunately really bad service and quality is a "Jeep thing". Join a forum like JKOwners.com to learn more about how to deal with this.

2) The Genright aluminum bumpers are good quality. Aluminum is fine for many applications, just make sure you stick with steel for sliders and skid plates. Go minimalist with your bumpers too; many newbs make the mistake of wasting their money on full-width expedition bumpers, only to find out that they destroy your approach and departure angles in the rocks. Stubby, small bumpers are much better.

3) The lift jeep uses is absolute crap and way overpriced. DO NOT believe the hype that your warranty will be voided if you do not use their lift - that is an internet legend, refer to item #1. The dealership does horrible work on installs, ask many of the local shop owners that have to fix their mistakes frequently. If you want to run 35s, just get the Teraflex 2.5" budget boost for a couple hundred dollars and install it in your driveway in a few hours. Bring it by my house with some cold beer and I will even help you install it.

4) Yep, anything under 35" tires looks stupid on a 4-door. And really, the 4-door needs bigger tires to compensate for its poor break-over angle. If you get new wheels, get them with 3.5" of backspacing so your links and tires will clear during full articulation. I highly recommend 17" wheels, as the selection and price are better than with 16" or 18" wheels.

5) And for the stuff you really need, but didn't ask about:
a) Steering stabilizer = get a steering stabilizer relocation kit to move your stabilizer above the tie rod. you will break this on your first off-road trip if you do not move it. The kit is easy to install in under an hour.
b) Front axle reinforcement = the front axle on JKs are really crap. Your Dana 44 is really a D30 with a D44 center section. Yes, Jeep lied to you and your front axle is not really a D44. The tubes on these axles are actually WEAKER than D30s on TJs and XJs. Bottom line; your 4-door is just too damn heavy for this front axle. But the fix is easy, just purchase sleeves and gussets from poly performance and have them installed by a local shop like G&G (G&G has lots of experience doing this). Do this sooner rather than later as I have seen many tubes bend just from hitting potholes on the street. JKO had a run to pismo several years ago where 6 JKs bent there front axle tubes in the first hour of the run. Lots of people in this club have done the same, including me. Also, jeep uses "half clips" in their front axle u-joints on the JK; This is a very poor design that fails frequently and causes other damage when it does. Aftermarket Chrome Moly axle shafts cure this problem and give for much stronger axles.
c) Aftermarket tie rod = the factory tie rod may look big, but it is a very thin hollow tube that bends easily. Once again, these are not up to the task of handling the weight of your Jeep and will bend like a pretzel the first time it hits a rock. Get a Poly performance or Rock Krawler tie rod and never worry about this again. Once again, takes less than an hour to install in your driveway.


35" tires, beefed up front axle, and aftermarket tie rod should get you through 90% of the trails we run with little issues.

[robnoxious1]

To add to your list, diff skids or better covers. Better tie rod or relocation. Armor or relocate evap can (are they still in the same spot on '12+s?). Cage in front (there is NO real protection forward of the B pillar).

Rob

[H. Badger]

Wow great info!!!!

I hope to go to the meet and greet coming up, maybe I can see some of the things your talking about. I am a huge chicken about warranty stuff so I will definately look into that act you are talking about because the 3" jeep lift is $3200 and that sounded outrageous to me. I do t plan to do anything till December as far as major mods so I have time to research. Aaron and another guy took me through freeway ridge and I cam out with only a light scratch on the air damn. I will look at the reinforcement to the front axles seems like that could cause issues quick and I might take you up on being beer for help.

Yes the evap is still in the same stupid spot I plan to do the relocation kit ASAP. They did add a skid to it now on the '12 rubis but still is open for rock relocation.

Thanks again hope to hit some trails soon with you all

[abendx]

Come on my Labor Day run. It's an easy trail.

[H. Badger]

[quote="Desert Dog"]1) Research the The Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act. You will soon find out that Chrysler has the WORST service in the industry, so get used to arguing for everything. Many of us, including myself, have had to threaten to sue under the The Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act to get work done. Legally, they have to PROVE beyond doubt that a mod you made directly caused the damage. Even if you don't mod your jeep, the dealership will try to get out of it. Unfortunately really bad service and quality is a "Jeep thing". Join a forum like JKOwners.com to learn more about how to deal with this.

2) The Genright aluminum bumpers are good quality. Aluminum is fine for many applications, just make sure you stick with steel for sliders and skid plates. Go minimalist with your bumpers too; many newbs make the mistake of wasting their money on full-width expedition bumpers, only to find out that they destroy your approach and departure angles in the rocks. Stubby, small bumpers are much better.

3) The lift jeep uses is absolute crap and way overpriced. DO NOT believe the hype that your warranty will be voided if you do not use their lift - that is an internet legend, refer to item #1. The dealership does horrible work on installs, ask many of the local shop owners that have to fix their mistakes frequently. If you want to run 35s, just get the Teraflex 2.5" budget boost for a couple hundred dollars and install it in your driveway in a few hours. Bring it by my house with some cold beer and I will even help you install it.

4) Yep, anything under 35" tires looks stupid on a 4-door. And really, the 4-door needs bigger tires to compensate for its poor break-over angle. If you get new wheels, get them with 3.5" of backspacing so your links and tires will clear during full articulation. I highly recommend 17" wheels, as the selection and price are better than with 16" or 18" wheels.

5) And for the stuff you really need, but didn't ask about:
a) Steering stabilizer = get a steering stabilizer relocation kit to move your stabilizer above the tie rod. you will break this on your first off-road trip if you do not move it. The kit is easy to install in under an hour.
b) Front axle reinforcement = the front axle on JKs are really crap. Your Dana 44 is really a D30 with a D44 center section. Yes, Jeep lied to you and your front axle is not really a D44. The tubes on these axles are actually WEAKER than D30s on TJs and XJs. Bottom line; your 4-door is just too damn heavy for this front axle. But the fix is easy, just purchase sleeves and gussets from poly performance and have them installed by a local shop like G&G (G&G has lots of experience doing this). Do this sooner rather than later as I have seen many tubes bend just from hitting potholes on the street. JKO had a run to pismo several years ago where 6 JKs bent there front axle tubes in the first hour of the run. Lots of people in this club have done the same, including me. Also, jeep uses "half clips" in their front axle u-joints on the JK; This is a very poor design that fails frequently and causes other damage when it does. Aftermarket Chrome Moly axle shafts cure this problem and give for much stronger axles.
c) Aftermarket tie rod = the factory tie rod may look big, but it is a very thin hollow tube that bends easily. Once again, these are not up to the task of handling the weight of your Jeep and will bend like a pretzel the first time it hits a rock. Get a Poly performance or Rock Krawler tie rod and never worry about this again. Once again, takes less than an hour to install in your driveway.


35" tires, beefed up front axle, and aftermarket tie rod should get you through 90% of the trails we run with little issues.[/quote]


Ok I have finally start seriously looking into a lot of this stuff. Due to my lack of knowledge and experience I am getting lost on the axle stuff. Sleeves that's easy I found the inner sleeve stuff on poly performance like you said. What gets me is the gussets. The kit they show on poly talks about. Hanging pinion and caster angles for different lifts. Also they show tons of options you can get like c gussets and like 10 other things. And I have no clue what is needed or if it's fluff. I know the angle stuff is for the driveline positioning, with a 2.5-3.5" lift I shouldn't need new drive shafts correct?

Then there are lifts. Teraflex has the budget boost which seems like an awesome inexpensive option. 2.5" but they also have 3" actual lifts and then even a 2.5" long arm kit??? What is the advantages of an actual lift compared to what looks like a 2.5" spacer kit?

As of now I am planning on going to the M&G at G&G Thursday if we don't head out for our trip early. Maybe most of this would better be discussed there? I have monday and Tuesday off also so if someone would want to meet up for lunch or beers and chat for a while about this kind of stuff that would be appreciated.

[Desert Dog]

Yes, by "gussets" I meant C-gussets, as the "C"s on your axle are very weak.

You can get any 2.5-3" lift you want to run 35s. The JK comes with long arms from the factory (compared to previous jeep models), so don't waste you money on long arm lifts to run 35s.

The beauty of the 2.5" budget boost is that it installs in just a couple hours, keeps the factory ride, and doesn't require new driveshafts. Any lift over 3" will require drivelines, new shocks, new track bars, and pinion angle changes. IMO, if you just want to run 35s, get the budget boost and do a fender trim.

Just remember that if you get new wheels, GET THEM WITH 3.5" BACKSPACING!

Here is my rig after the first few months of owning it. A cheap 2.5" budget boost and 35" KM2s. I went through Calico Gatekeeper and Sledgehammer with this set-up.

[attachment=0]P1301285.JPG[/attachment]

Casaintsfan and Abendx have also done some awesome things with a budget boost and 35s.

[H. Badger]

That looks good. How long did you keep with budget boost? Did you end up upgrading later anyways? Yeah I got the axle stuff figured out. I had some free time and went and talked to the guys at G&G about it. Parts are cheap but install was more than I expected but got to see exactly what you were talking about there was a jk that was getting the front end replaced due to bent tubes. Will definately pay the money and get it done.

[H. Badger]

And if you did change what did you go with?

[Desert Dog]

[quote="BrightWhiteJKGP"]And if you did change what did you go with?[/quote]
Well, lets just say that my rig transformed into something different entirely

[attachment=0]wrecking ball 1.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=1]ass flex.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=2]sub crawl.jpg[/attachment]

[jkaddiction]

Chris u should sell me ur rear 60 after u fix the ring gear and get u a pro rock 80

[H. Badger]

[quote="Desert Dog"][quote="BrightWhiteJKGP"]And if you did change what did you go with?[/quote]
Well, lets just say that my rig transformed into something different entirely

[attachment=0]wrecking ball 1.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=1]ass flex.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=2]sub crawl.jpg[/attachment][/quote]
That would be an understatement lol.

[Jeep Deere]

If your looking to save some money I have a stock 3.5" lift I took out of my 07 JKU not sure but I think it will fit. It's just the springs and arms.


Sent from JEEP DEERE

[H. Badger]

[quote="Jeep Deere"]If your looking to save some money I have a stock 3.5" lift I took out of my 07 JKU not sure but I think it will fit. It's just the springs and arms.


Sent from JEEP DEERE[/quote]
From the research I've been doing on the 12 rubis anything over 3" and additional mods have to be done due to angles on drive shaft and motor angles. I'm not necessarily trying to go the most economical route more the route of one time and done.

What's the reason for the take off?

Really appreciate the offer. What is the make? I will check around to see if it would work on mine without too much trouble.

[Jeep Deere]

We went for a 41/2" big arm that came off a friends jeep that was traded in. I think it's a sky jacker it was installed at the dealershit.


Sent from JEEP DEERE

[H. Badger]

[quote="Jeep Deere"]We went for a 41/2" big arm that came off a friends jeep that was traded in. I think it's a sky jacker it was installed at the dealershit.


Sent from JEEP DEERE[/quote]
Ok cool I will look into it.

[H. Badger]

Ok I plan to do the Sleeve and gusset kit on my jeep soon. I was wondering if there was anything else that I should do while i have the front end off and am welding on it so I dont have to pull it again later just to add something simple. Thanks guys

[robnoxious1]

[quote="BrightWhiteJKGP"]Ok I plan to do the Sleeve and gusset kit on my jeep soon. I was wondering if there was anything else that I should do while i have the front end off and am welding on it so I dont have to pull it again later just to add something simple. Thanks guys[/quote]

Might want to relocate the steering stabilizer, doesnt require welding but its a very vulnerable component. There are several brackets available to do this.

Rob

[H. Badger]

[quote="robnoxious1"][quote="BrightWhiteJKGP"]Ok I plan to do the Sleeve and gusset kit on my jeep soon. I was wondering if there was anything else that I should do while i have the front end off and am welding on it so I dont have to pull it again later just to add something simple. Thanks guys[/quote]

Might want to relocate the steering stabilizer, doesnt require welding but its a very vulnerable component. There are several brackets available to do this.

Rob[/quote]
Yeah I have a couple in mind. I was thinking more like shock mounts I remeber Richard saying something else was a common part to break but I forget at the moment. Thanks rob

[Frylock]

when I sleeved my tube I also ran a weld over just about anything that looked shaddy from the factory. Wich was a lot of crap, shock mounts, track bar brackets, the pumpkin plug welds for the tube..... I also ran a bead around the tube where it goes into the pumpkin but you will prolly F up your seals if you do that with them installed.

Some photos of my project if your interested.

http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/aa11 ... 0overkill/

[H. Badger]

[quote="Frylock"]when I sleeved my tube I also ran a weld over just about anything that looked shaddy from the factory. Wich was a lot of crap, shock mounts, track bar brackets, the pumpkin plug welds for the tube..... I also ran a bead around the tube where it goes into the pumpkin but you will prolly F up your seals if you do that with them installed.

Some photos of my project if your interested.

http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/aa11 ... 0overkill/[/quote]
Geez that thing must be bullet proof now. Good Idea touching up factory welds. Thanks

[Goatman]

The sleeves don't take nearly as much welding as the Poly Performance instructions say. Also, the Poly C gussets risk shortening the life of the upper ball joints because of the heat necessary to weld them on.

[chuckanut105]

[quote="Goatman"]The sleeves don't take nearly as much welding as the Poly Performance instructions say. Also, the Poly C gussets risk shortening the life of the upper ball joints because of the heat necessary to weld them on.[/quote]

While your in there you will want to replace you BJs anyways. The stock bjs suck ass once you add bigger tires and wheel the stock ones will fail and you will have a death wooble. My suggestion is to replace them while your getting the work done. Poly makes some good ones $250 or dynatrac makes good ones too $600. I have the poly ones no issuse after 30,000 mi on 35's.

[robnoxious1]

Another thing to add to the list. LCA Skids. I just spent an hour and a half beating and prying mine so I could get it straight enough to put a socket on it to check the torque. Will be my next mod.

Rob

[abendx]

[quote="Desert Dog"][attachment=0]P1301285.JPG[/attachment][/quote]

I remember those days..... mine kind of looked like that as well.


[quote="robnoxious1"]Another thing to add to the list. LCA Skids. I just spent an hour and a half beating and prying mine so I could get it straight enough to put a socket on it to check the torque. Will be my next mod.[/quote]

Forget the pricey skids... just take some plate and box them in.