"Old Yellar" The "free" Jeep

[Zak.Taylor]

I'm hoping that's the case matt. You could sell your engine and trans for what a decent ZJ would cost.... Tempting yet?

[Zak.Taylor]

Ok, just got a quote on a plug and play harness.....$855.94

Looks like I'll be learning vehicle electrical.

I figure my labor is worth $20 per hour.... I could work 45 hours on it before I broke even....I'm fairly certain I can figure it out in 45 hours.

So here we go

[AJ99]

Zak i can lend a hand with electrical. Since you have the entire jeep it wont be hard at all. give me a call this evening!

[REDxj5150]

Unfortunately I won't have much time in between wells, but I'll let you know when I'm off. Hopefully off by friday.

[Zak.Taylor]

I have nat'l guard duty this weekend so no jeep work. It'll probably be 3 weeks before it's ready to be wired

[AJ99]

ok well keep me updated lol.

[Zak.Taylor]

Ordered the fuel pump today. I'm going to use an in-line pump designed for mpfi engines up to 500hp. It's a summit racing part. I'm going to use the hard lines on the engine and fuel injection hose for the rest. 5 dollars a foot hurts!!! But it'll be cool

[REDxj5150]

I may have a bit of 1/4" stainless you could use for a return.

[Zak.Taylor]

Let me know if you do. I only need about 3-4 feet for each line

[EJ21]

[quote="Zak.Taylor"]I'm hoping that's the case matt. You could sell your engine and trans for what a decent ZJ would cost.... Tempting yet?[/quote]

Good idea! I will take the motor when you decide to make that swap.

[Zak.Taylor]

Progress notes for 08SEP2012

Removed the fenders, battery box, coolant bottle, ICM, old starter, old solenoid, old throttle cable, old positive and ground cables from the battery, motor mounts off of the 5.2L, old fuel lines, stripped most of the harness on the 5.2L so I can see what I'm doing, oh, and fought the mechanical fan off of the engine (plan to use BIG electric one)

Installed: Auto trans shifter, ZJ throttle cable (might have to source a FI YJ cable to proper length and amount of slack, or modify the ZJ cable), Routed the new Pos/Neg better cables and harness section, thinned out some of the wires that will not be used, installed the transmission mount, put the skid plate back on to hold the trans up, got the steering box/arm from the ZJ (stock ZJ arm has 3" drop)

Printed out the wiring diagrams for both the 87 YJ and the 93 ZJ off of AllData.com

Just waiting on engine mounts and fuel pump to arrive.

Next on the list of to-do's will be to install the fuel pump and run the lines to the engine lines, then assemble the Advance Adapters engine mounts and put them on the engine. Then figure out how far forward I can put the engine (more length for rear driveshaft).

If anyone has advice or lessons learned that they'd like to share, please do. This my first time swapping to a different type of engine and from carb to EFI, so help is appreciated.

Zak

[Zak.Taylor]

So I got all the wiring diagrams printed and put into a nice little book. Looks like I'll have to connect 5 wires from the YJ harness to the ZJ engine harness. I'll have to run a power wire to the fuel pump (original pump was manual, engine mounted).

The computer and all of it's wiring from the YJ are coming out today that should simplify things.

This thing i's going to be freaking awesome and since it'll be a while before I can get it referee'd, I'll have to keep it for a bit.

8.8 swap is approaching rapidly, as well as driveline building. Anyone object to square driveshaft for the front?

[Zak.Taylor]

I started in on the wiring today. I have power to all of the gauges, dash lights and lights on the Jeep. I thinned out the engine side of the bulkhead plug wiring. I labeled the wires that are hot with the key on, after I hooked up the fusible links to the battery. I've got 3 hot wires coming back out of the bulkhead plug, and one that is hot with the key turned to start only.

The starter on the 5.2L has the piggyback solenoid on it, so I decided to bypass the starter relay that is in the power distribution center, and just run the one wire that is hot with the key turned to start.
[color=#BF0000]
IF ANYBODY IS GOOD WITH ELECTRICAL AND THINKS THIS WAS A BAD IDEA, PLEASE TELL ME. I DON'T WANT MY JEEP CATCHING ON FIRE.[/color]

I got the engine to crank over like that. It sounded pretty good, like it did before I pulled it.

Whilst I was tinkering, the UPS guy showed up with my fuel pump. I was relieve to see that it dropped right into the tank. Shows that tanks from 87-95 are the same. Tomorrow I'll pick up the fuel hose to connect to the hard lines and a few clamps. Lets all pray for no fuel leaks.

Next obstacle is getting power to the fuel pump, coil, etc. via the Auto Shutdown Relay. I've been reading up on how to bypass it. Once I have all my grounds in place, if it still won't start, I'll bypass the ASD and see if that lets it run. If it does, I'll hunt for the reason that the ASD isn't being triggered to let the engine run.

Once I've got fuel and fire (meaning that she runs) I'll wire up the gauges and make everything look pretty by putting it back in the factory-style wire looms.

I've collected about 40 pages of wiring info for the ZJ to YJ swap, so if anyone needs any of it in the future, I can help you out.

Motor mounts should be here Friday, they will get welded in this weekend and the engine and trans will be permanent residents in the YJ.

Can't wait to see y'all at the meet n greet.

Zak

[Zak.Taylor]

It LIVES! The beast LIVES!!!

It fired today. I cried a little because the electrical was the part of the swap that scared me the most, and what I doubted myself most on.....and now we have life!

It is loud as all hell because I have no exhaust on it yet, but that'll be soon. I'm just super psyched that it runs.

I set the drivetrain in at a bit of a cant, partially because I was anticipating the ford 8.8, which is off-centered a little to the passenger side, and partly because the engine mounts don't bolt to exactly the same point on the engine. but, since I'm going to run the 8.8, I don't think it'll be a problem because of the diff offset.

Bottom line is....IT RUNS!!!!!!!

[Zak.Taylor]

Update with some pics.

I got the engine running, so I went ahead and put the heat shrink tubing on all of the wiring splices. I wired and plumbed the fuel pump. I am looking in to how I am going to handle the cross-member since the belly pan isn't going to work as well anymore. Deciding whether I'll build a cross member or cut the belly pan up to make it fit.

As is, my rear driveshaft will only be about 10-12" between yokes. I'm not sure how that is going to play out in the end, but the t-case output sits pretty low, so at least the angle won't be bad. I'm not certain that a SYE will help? Any recommendations on that would be helpful.

I am going to move the rear diff back 2" by placing the center pins at the front of the spring perch, and add 4" springs. (Eric, need those springs pretty soon...cash in hand)

I re-used the stock Y-pipe from the ZJ, and will use the YJ muffler (it was new) and tailpipe. Not sure what I'm going to do about a catalytic converter yet. I have the ones from the YJ and ZJ, so we'll see what happens.

Without further adieu....PICS

[Zak.Taylor]

Wow, those pics really suck.....I'll try to get some more tomorrow.
I think I may go with a 1" body lift, it'll give me extra room, and won't look as bad as the 3" did.

Next up:
Trans cooler (summit racing)
Shifter hookup
New kickdown cable (broke the old one taking it out)
Driveshafts
Crossmember or modify belly pan
hook up all gauges, if they don't work...maybe go Autometer.

[Zak.Taylor]

Today I got a Hayden 403 Trans cooler put on. The kit came with everything I needed.

I also put the in-line fuel filter on.

I modified the ZJ throttle cable by putting some 1/16" ferrule clamps on it since it was too long for the YJ pedal.

Getting closer to driveability.

The engine starts with just a turn of the key (I was pretty sure I'd have to at least jerry-rig something in the relay box)

[Lake_v2]

That driveshaft will not be happy thats for sure when i was in 2.5” lift with sye and 16” shaft it was bare minimun was at nearly 20 degrees it lived, when we lifted beccas without sye and springover we used an 18” shaft and it is fine with balanced angles.

If i was you would Check angles and length for sye if sye isnt enough its fairly easy to stretch the rear by,4” on yj by moving the fixed hanger to,the rear of jeep and redrilling perches... That is how i had 4” stretch on mine before the recent mods.

I think an 8.8 has a smaller profile pumkin than the d44 so may be able to get away without.having to modify the.fuel tank.

[Zak.Taylor]

Matt, thanks for the heads up. I have the option of sye or non-sye because I bought a spare case that came with an sye. Once I get the 4" springs on and the 8.8 in, I'm going to start checking angles, as of now, with the 1" shackles only, the angles are pretty mild but once the 4" springs go on and I move the axle back 2-4" it'll obviously change. I have to make a crossmember for it, or cut up the belly pan, so I can play with the angles a bit on that end as well. Maybe once I get the lift and 8.8 on, you can come over and help me figure out the driveline setup.....I'll make sure there's a full blue moon out in broad daylight.

[Lake_v2]

just let me know when your doing the driveline and ill make it over to help

[Zak.Taylor]

My SYE t-case came via UPS today....they guy did not like carrying it from the truck to my driveway....and since I paid dearly for shipping....I wasn't about to carry it for him. ( Wasn't my normal UPS guy )

I moved the D35 back to the rear of the locating pins on the leaf springs and I am just about able to put my stock driveshaft back on, with the non-SYE case.

I am going to go to Eric's tomorrow and pick up my 8.8 and bring it home. He should have the 4" lift springs off for me by next weekend and then I'll put them on my YJ. As of now, with 35's and stock springs.....if I sit in the Jeep, it will rub the flare that I already cut 1" off of....lol....I am going to go 4" springs and 1" body lift.....Later, I may put some "missing link" style shackles (think Samurai) on the front end to give me much better droop, but for now, 5" total lift is all she is getting.

I am going to see if the ZJ radiator can somehow fit in the YJ tomorrow. I have the 3" drop brackets from the body lift......otherwise, I have to go to the parts store and figure out my Radiator hose situation.....but I'll have a plan by noon tomorrow.

The YJ is coming along at the expected pace.....the engine sounds mean as all hell when it is fired (no muffler at all). It is mounted pretty stiff and flexes the entire Jeep when I rev it (just what I was hoping for).....All in all, I am still glad I took on this project, instead of just putting a 4.2 back in it. I know I have a reputation for changing trail rigs more often than underwear, but I'd like to keep this one since my initial buy in was $-150 and it is much more unique than any of my previous Jeeps. (11 total).

We are making progress.....thanks for reading.

[Zak.Taylor]

Progress up to 05OCT2012:
Today I got the 4" lift springs on front and rear, all 4 shocks off, D35 off, Ford 8.8 rear axle on, rear soft brakeline cut and going to remove the bracket tomorrow. I put the D30 and 8.8 axles back in their stock positions (no wheelbase stretch...yet) for simplicity of install. I want to get the Jeep together and drivable before I start modifying things that don't have to be modified.

The 1.25" body lift I ordered from Rough Country came yesterday. It will go on tomorrow. I have already removed the 3" bodylift pucks that were on the Jeep when I got it. Body and suspension combined will give me 6.25" of lift, with the 1" lift shackles.

The transfer case is about 3" further back than stock, so I have to cut the floor a little for the shifter, or make a new one. I will determine which one tomorrow.

I have to get a soft brakeline made to adapt the Jeep hard line to the Ford axle. That shouldn't be a problem for any capable hose shop. I also need longer brakelines for the front. I have removed the factory brackets for now, but I need longer ones before I take it wheeling.

Shocks will probably be just some average Pro-Comps, maybe ES3000-ES9000 but we'll see what the budget comes to once it rolls.

I broke the kickdown cable from the throttle body to the trans when I pulled the engine and trans out of the ZJ. I haven't had much luck hunting for one, so I may be manual shifting it. At this point, I haven't wired the overdrive solenoid, so it is just a 3 speed auto for now, but that is just a single switch to wire, so no biggie.

Old Yellar is coming along quite well. I am happy with the progress. Being in my last quarter of nursing school, and carrying 20 units this quarter, I am pretty busy and can't work on it as much as I'd like. I am very happy that I have invested in tools over the years and have things to make the job possible with just one person. I'm hoping to have it drivable for the Veteran's Day parade. We'll see what Tom Woods has to say about some driveshafts, and go that will dictate our time table. I'm thinking I can have it drivable in 2wd at least, by then.

Thanks for reading, and if you are using my thread as a reference for your 5.2L YJ swap, remember, I am not a perfectionist or a guy who is super anal on the details. I want my Jeep to run, be reliable and come in under the budget of $3,000 which included buying the Jeep. It'll be capable on the trail, but no super-crawler. It'll probably outrun most of the little Honduhs on the street though, which will be fun.

[Zak.Taylor]

I made a little more progress yesterday. My dad shortened the stock driveshaft for me just 3/4" and welded it all back together. I got the 1310/1330 (Part# Precision 353 or Spicer 5-134x from O'Reilly) conversion u-joint and put it on the stock shaft. The 4 banger YJ that I got from EJ21 had more driveline angle than this one does, so I am a little optimistic that it should work. I installed a new, stock soft brakeline on the 8.8 and the input fitting fits the hard line on the YJ, so no modification needed there. I also took the e-brake cables with the 8.8 when I got it, and those are going to work on the Jeep as well, with very little modification.

I also switched up the location of the springs on the Jeep. I put the rear 5-leaf springs on the front and the front 4-leafers on the rear to help compensate for the extra weight of motor and trans. It sits pretty level at this point, so I'll probably leave it that way. The u-bolts were barely long enough for the front, so I'll be getting some made for it, but its together for now.

I had to cut the floor to make room for the travel of the t-case shifter, and I had to make a new linkage rod, so I used 4.5" of threaded 5/16" hardened rod, and two heim joints with jam nuts. I have to take one end off to adjust the length, but I don't plan to need to adjust it once it is adjusted right the first time.

I have made some great progress on the Jeep over the past couple months that I've been working on it. I fully believe that someone could do this in a week if they had the proper tools and parts on hand.

A summary of progress to date:
-5.2L and 46rh installed in Jeep
-belly skid cut to fit around the t-case which moved back ~4"
-Ford 8.8 from 98 explorer installed on rear, stretched 2" by putting the axle behind the centering pins of the leaf springs
-4" lift springs, 1" lift shackles, 1.25" body lift, no trimming of body....yet
-Engine wired up, splices secured with heat shrink tubing and electrical tape over that
-radiator hoses made to fit from Napa stock
-31's sold, 35x13.50r15 Toyo MT's in place
-Fuel pump from injected YJ fit right into tank and wired
-using a stock NP231 and shortened stock driveshaft, custom shaft will need made for the front, retaining vacuum disco front axle
-4.10 gears en route

Today's plan is to wire the gauges, reseal the t-case Lakev2 gave me, fill with fluid, top off trans, put wiring into looms, order some more parts and install wiring harness back on grill for front lights. hook up the speedo

Hoping to be drivable in the Veterans Day parade

[Zak.Taylor]

Hell ya! I got to drive ol yellar yesterday! I need to top the trans off and bleed the brakes again, but at least I got it rolling.
I need pinion shims for the rear axle, it binds under aggressive braking, but my last yj did too (spring wrap).
I bought a yj out near Lamont and pulled the family cage and will probably take the top as well. I may even take the hard half doors too.

It has some serious balls, and with no muffler or cat, it sounds wicked.

Still have to install the body lift, wire gauges, do gears and front driveshaft but I'm getting closer. I'll have it drivable enough for vets day.

[ScottyMaxx]

Awesome build!!! Lots of work but making great progress. I love projects like this can't wait to see the finished product or to see it rolling!!!