How to front Dana 60??

[VICTORG93307]

Hi guys i have been debating for a couple of days on how to go about upgrading my 2009 Jeep Wrangler 4dr. I have been pondering on going the easier cheaper route of just upgrading my front Dana 30, I was thinking about an E-Locker chromoly shafts and the whole nine but in the end ill still have a Dana 30 and will prob be kicking myself in the butt when something snaps. I am planning on running 35" tires at the moment and eventually going up to 37". I am really needing your guys input on this, im not sure where to even start, I was looking at some of the Currie Rock Jock axles but 5000 is waaay to much, so that option is out the door. I was looking into getting a used front 60 adding locker and gears, and have brackets welded on for the JK. Im open to ideas.

[Desert Dog]

So you wanna run 37s on you JK X! Definitely gonna need help with the front axle.

[b][u]OPTION 1:[/u][/b]
The Rock Jock 60 is $5,000, but a locker, gears, and install kit will bring it to $6,000. But you will have a badazz worry-free set-up in the front. Run 42s if you want.

TOTAL FOR OPTION #1 = $6,000


[b][u]OPTION 2:[/u][/b]
Another option is to buy a Mopar Rubi 44 axle for $3,000 http://www.quadratec.com/products/52446_101_T.htm

Then get a Sleeve and gusset kit for $150 http://www.teraflex.biz/products/jk-axl ... t-kit.html

and chrome molly axles for $800


TOTAL FOR OPTION #2 = About $4,000

[b][u]OPTION 3:[/u][/b]
OR build a super 30 out of you front axle with this kit which is nice and comes with an ARB locker, beefy shafts, and an install kit for $1,600 http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/07- ... 24508.html

Add a sleeve and gusset kit for $150

TOTAL FOR OPTION #3 = about $1,800

Of course, labor will vary depending on your mechanical ability. You should regear both axles when you do this, and that will run you another $1,000 (or half that if you do option 1).

[VICTORG93307]

Thank you Mr. Desert Dog, what setup are you running on yours?

[VICTORG93307]

I was looking at these too and add the e-locker to it.

https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/ca ... ucts_id=70

[Desert Dog]

[quote="VICTORG93307"]I was looking at these too and add the e-locker to it.

https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/ca ... ucts_id=70[/quote]

Victor, I am running Currie Rock Jock 60.

Those RCV axle shafts are TITS!!!! but $$$$$.

Figure;
* $1100 for the RCV axles
* $200 sleeve and gussets
* $800 for locker and install kit

About $2100 if you go that route (without labor).

Don't forget to regear both axles at the same time you have this stuff installed. You will save hundreds of $ in labor.

[TheBigDogg]

Wow they have them for the XJ's too

[VICTORG93307]

So running 35" tires what should gearing should i use?? I kept hearing you guys saying "I wish I had gone with 5.32 or something like that"

[TheBigDogg]

this might help you Victor:

http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/gear_ratio.html

[Desert Dog]

[quote="VICTORG93307"]So running 35" tires what should gearing should i use?? I kept hearing you guys saying "I wish I had gone with 5.32 or something like that"[/quote]

This is a good chart for your auto JK;

[attachment=0]gears_.jpg[/attachment]

I would at least get 4.88 gears. Those make for a great daily driver automatic JK on 35s. If you want bigger tires or better offroad performance at the expense of worse gas mileage, than get the 5.13 gears. I wish I had 5.38 gears, of course those are not good for your D30 housing. If you plan on staying with the 35s - the 4.88s are a great upgrade.

[abendx]

Lots of good info here....

My two cents.

The burfield shafts (RCV) are the best you are going to find right now. They are smooth as butter when it comes to turning with a locked front end, strong, and have a lifetime warranty. For about half the cost you can get some cromoly shafts like the stockers, but stronger. If you go this route, tack weld the u-joint caps as they are a weak spot and carry some trail spares.

You can beef a 30.... like Chris said, the Poly kit is good. If you are eventually going to 37s, I'd say to skip beefing the 30 and go to either a 44 or 60.

You can get take off 44s for less than listed above. Watch Craigslist and JKO for take offs that go for sale.

I think a 60 is wonderful, but you can beef up a 44 and get 95%-98% there as far as the strength of a 60 goes. The loser with the 44 is less choice when it comes to R&P, mostly due to strength. Which leads us to the last issue.... R&P.

With a 60... go with what you desire. With a 44, 5.13s are pretty safe.... 5.38s are pushing the strength of the R&P. With a 35" tire, JK, and auto trans.... 5.13s for sure. With 37s, 5.38s are optimal, but 5.13s will work. I am going to guess that 5.38s and 35s are going to be somewhat hard to deal with on the freeway.

A JK, 4.88s, auto trans, and 35s are going to leave you wanting. With 37s and 4.88s you are going to be looking to run into the front of a semi just to get it over with.

[Goatman]

Victor, you really need to decide if you're going to eventually go to 37's. That's a pretty big tire, and only really useful in bigger rocks. For normal trails, 35's are all you'll ever need. Going to 37's is expensive since real axle upgrades are necessary. If you go with 35's for the foreseeable future, you're best bet for strength and cost is to upgrade the D30. The super 30 kit in the Poly Performance link that was posted is a pretty good way to go.

I'd spend the extra money and get good chromo axle joints, like CTM's or Longfields. The Spicer joints can still break, so it's a good upgrade to go with chromo joints. Either way, the axle joints have to be installed with snap rings rather than the normal c-clips that come with the Spicer joints (the chromo joints come with snap rings). The normal c-clips can pop off under a big load, and then the cap walks out and then the joint breaks, using snap rings eliminates this weakness. All the chromo joints come with enough clearance inside the yokes to install the snap rings. Someone suggested tack welding the caps on, which works but also ruins the nice chromo shaft, and it's unnecessary since you can just use the snap rings.

If you upgrade a D30 to 30 spline shafts, then the axles and joints are the same as a D44, so the strength upgrade of the D44 is the ring and pinion. Here on the west coast, where we don't do regular full throttle assaults on obstacles like they do in the muddy east, the D30 ring and pinons seem to hold up pretty well to 35's, though they do occasionally break. Just keep in mind that as far as axle strength goes, an upgraded D30 is the same as a D44, and if you get a D44 you must also get chromo shafts and axle joints.

[Desert Dog]

Good point Richard, I forgot to mention those damn c-clips, which is even worse on the JK because they are only "half-moon" clips and pop off very easy. I had it happen when I had the 30 up front. It happens to a lot of people that don't even wheel their JK; just driving on the street!